Monday, May 19, 2008

Bogs are Rich











I may have mentioned this before. . . .Rome never invaded or conquered Ireland. Actually the first known name for this island was Hibernia, then it was called Eire, then Ireland. Rome got to England and kinda sat back on their laurels and didn’t bother to cross the 15 miles of sea to gain another chunk of land. Silly Romans.

By starting our trip on the west coast we got a VERY clear picture of how this island survived thousands of years. In the Dingle Peninsula we saw the Mesolithic period with the ring forts and the beehive dwellings. The early man took the stones found everywhere and used them to corral their animals, protect their crops and construct their homes. These same people, though not rich in farmland, were rich in other items that came to them via the sea. Or more specifically, the nomadic people that came by sea.
Coming across the center of the island we saw the Viking towns and how the Nordic style of fortification changed as the centuries went on. Then finally on the east coast we see the HUGE influence of England or rather the Anglo-Saxon control.


In Cashel we found a "Folk village" which on paper and internet looked really cool, one of those re-enactor places. but what we found was actual a Gypsy (Irish traverlers) tourist trap. the only thing that was interesting to me was the gypsy wagon (a real one). Ihave always wanted to build a miniature version of one of these. Now I have pics the the outside and inside to pattern it after.

In Wexford (east coast of Ireland, below Dublin) there is a fascinating Heritage park. There has been an attempt to recreate the history of Ireland by building the different significant settlements man has made through out the millennium. This kinda reminds me of the wonderful Eskimo museum in Anchorage where they have constructed all the domiciles of the different tribes of Eskimos in the Alaska/Canadian area so you can see how each tribe takes advantage of what was native to their area. The same goes for each “age” of man on the island of Ireland. What was available to them at the time, they used. Rocks at first, then trees, then iron and bronze. We must have walked a good 5 miles through this “living” site. We could see how during the summer there would be re-enactors in each area helping the tourists get a feel for the life and times. This is another good example of a museum “doing it right”
The town of Wexford is a whole other story. We got lost very quickly going into Wexford, we don’t know how we got out of it on the right road but we did. One of those, Turn right, Turn right , Turn right, OH SHIT it’s a one way, now what? I don’t know, Quit yelling, I’m not, Tell me where to do. You don’t want me to tell you where to go. JUST TELL ME WHICH WAY!. . . . ummmmm THAT WAY! We went past this before. Je%$#Christ! OMG. . .you are driving on the sidewalk. I KNOW! There, THERE, the sign says Heritage Park that way. . . . .How did we do that? I don’t know, but just keep going this way. . .and breath.

I haven’t spoken much about the bogs. But after the wonderful afternoon in the national Museum of History & Archeology I have found a new respect for bogs. This museum is beyond great. Jerry and I have visited many large museums in our travels. And small ones for that matter. (memories of the frog museum in Switzerland). This National museum was by far tops on our list. Most museums have collections that come from here and there and are not cohesive. The Ireland national Museum has a story to tell and they tell it well. The history of the island is vast. We saw stone age artifacts, Iron age weapons and tools, bronze age money and more gold than you would believe. The bogs hold oxygen at bay. Without oxygen decay is delayed and these artifacts are thus held in a suspended animation. 95% of the artifacts are NOT found in archeological digs. Rather they are found when people are cutting peat for heating their homes.
We saw glass case after glass case of gold torques, bracelets, ear barrels (the kind you see in African tribes) and buttons, clasps.
But I think the most amazing were the articles of clothing from the 15th century and the actual bodies they found in the bogs. Wait I said that wrong. The bodies were not from the 15th century. Scientist estimate the bodies are from as far back as 2,300 years ago.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/4589638.stm
the garments are stained brown from the peat but otherwise they are in wonderful condition. AND for those of you looking for evidence to prove historically correct jewelry. . . I saw knitted (crochet) metal wire with beads as a necklace dating to the 4th century. So there. . .you can crochet a wire necklace and be “period”.
There were whole log boats in the bogs, even stone moulds carved out to pour melted iron in and make spear heads and arrow heads. So amazing even Jerry was impressed.
It would be very easy for me to go back to that museum and spend a whole day. It was a beautiful building and a wonderful story it told of this small and yet historically large island.

Walking a brisk 7 blocks (not sure if we should call them blocks, I swear no street was straight in Dublin) we come to Trinity College. Not a campus we on the west coast would ever find beautiful or inviting. There were only postage stamp size pieces of lawn. The rest was stone. Stone walls all the way around, stone buildings, stone walk paths, stone parade grounds. In one of the stone buildings was a collection of books that would make any book fanatic sell their soul just to be allowed to touch and open the books on just ONE of the book shelves let alone the whole collection. It is called the long room. Every book is leather bound. Some are so old that around the leather are bands of linen to hold the book covers and spines together. http://www.tcd.ie/Library/heritage/longroom.php
Some of you know I love books. I love to read them, own them, give them. My mother instilled in me a love for the written word, whether fiction or non. . .she loved books and so do I. This room will remain in my psyche forever. Sigh. Even the marble busts of famous authors/philosophers that line the room bring an air of majesty to it. To glorify books is a beautiful thing. Even better is the Irish harp that is on display in this room. So Music & Books. . . .YES!!!! I found heaven on earth! (wait.. . .they didn’t serve Pepsi. . .so it can’t be heaven on earth. . .but it is pretty darn close)
Before you come to this room you visit another famous exhibit. The Book of Kells.. Now originally this book was started in Scotland. But with all the raids going on over there the church wanted it protected to they snuck it out of Scotland and took it to an abbey in Kells Ireland. They began writing it in 800AD. This book is actually the 4 gospels, Matthew,Mark,Luke & John. The first part of the exhibit has a wonderful explanation of why it was started, who started it, why it was moved. Then it explains in great detail how the actual writing and illuminations were done. There are TV monitors in each area (ink, paper/vellum, printing, binding & covering) with videos showing a master calligrapher & illuminator doing the work with the tools of the era. So many people may think that the book of Kells is small and un-impressive when they actually get to the room where it is on display. But as I said before, I love books. The Book of Kells is a work of art. Even if you never read the actual words on the page, the formation of the lettering and pictures show the potential of creation man has had for centuries. I am glad Ireland kept these jewels safe for centuries.

Temple Bar. . .?? ever heard of it? No it is not a pub/bar. It is a district in Dublin. Suppose to be the party place to go for Stag/Hen parties. Well we went to it during the day. We are not impressed. We did have one of the better meals for lunch there. But other than that, it was just one bar/pub after another with tiny alleyways and homeless people all over. So . . . as far as this tourist goes. . .I would not make it a “must see”.
BUT the Kilmainham Gaol is a must see. A 10eu Taxi trip from our hotel took us to the Gaol (jail). This Gaol was built in 1796 in an attempt to reform the penal culture. There was an movement to be more civil to criminals. Prior to this time the Gaols were just a big building where men/women/children that were convicted would all be placed and housed together. But with the new reform they felt by making each prisoner have their own room they could keep the convicts from learning from each other and leaving jail smarter and doing even bigger crimes. Well in theory this would work. But the Gaol was built with 150 cells and during the potato famine they had 3000 prisoners placed there. So needless to say they were never able to prove the reform worked. The Gaol was closed up by 1900. But in 1916 it was reopened to house the political prisoners from the uprising. (remember the one our hotel was a part of). The museum part of the Gaol has some of the original letters people wrote to their loved ones who were being held there. It is heartbreaking to read them. And yet I am sure every nation has their heros that fight for the freedom of the whole nation. I bet you could find letters like these in Vietnam and Cambodia. In Kuwait and Iraq. Reading these particular letters makes both Jerry and I, again, acutely aware of what our nation is doing to and for other countries to assist in creating a land of free people.
Mary get off your soap box!
Cheers

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